Along Spain’s dazzling Costa Brava, where rugged cliffs plunge into turquoise waters and whitewashed villages bask under the Mediterranean sun, lies one of the most enchanting seaside towns in Catalonia — Tossa de Mar. Known for its blend of history, charm, and seaside beauty, Tossa de Mar’s Old Town (Vila Vella) stands as a living museum of the medieval world, where ancient walls and cobblestone alleys whisper stories of pirates, kings, and centuries past.
A Medieval Jewel by the Sea
Tossa de Mar’s Old Town, perched above the shimmering Mediterranean, is the only remaining walled medieval town on the Catalan coast. Its golden sandstone ramparts, rising dramatically above the blue sea, have guarded the town for over eight centuries. Built in the 12th century, the fortress was designed to protect inhabitants from pirate raids that once plagued the coast.
As you pass through the ancient gateway, the atmosphere instantly shifts — the hum of beach life fades into a serene maze of narrow cobblestone streets, lined with stone houses, flower-draped balconies, and hidden courtyards. Each turn feels like stepping deeper into history, where time moves slower, and the Mediterranean breeze carries a hint of salt and nostalgia.
Walking Through History
The heart of Tossa de Mar’s Old Town is its fortified walls, topped by seven circular defense towers that have stood watch for centuries. The most iconic is the Torre d’en Joanàs, overlooking the sea, and the Torre des Codolar, guarding the cove below. From these towers, visitors are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the rugged coastline, dotted with fishing boats and shimmering waves.
At the summit of Vila Vella stands the Lighthouse of Tossa de Mar (Far de Tossa), built in 1917. Today, it houses a small museum that explores the history of Mediterranean navigation and the evolution of coastal defense. The views from the lighthouse terrace are nothing short of spectacular — a sweeping vista of the Costa Brava stretching endlessly in both directions.
Within the walls, remnants of ancient life still remain. The ruins of the Old Church of Sant Vicenç, dating back to the 15th century, sit quietly amid the flowers and stone paths, while nearby, art galleries and small boutiques fill the old fishermen’s homes with new life.
A Town That Inspired Artists
In the early 20th century, Tossa de Mar began to attract artists, writers, and filmmakers drawn to its light, tranquility, and natural beauty. One of its most famous admirers was Marc Chagall, who nicknamed Tossa “The Blue Paradise.” His visits helped turn the town into a cultural haven, and to this day, art galleries and studios keep that creative spirit alive.
In 1935, Tossa also made cinematic history when it was featured in the Hollywood film Pandora and the Flying Dutchman, starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. A bronze statue of Gardner now stands on a terrace overlooking the bay — a tribute to the era when Tossa captured the imagination of the world.
The Beaches and the Bay
Below the old walls lies Platja Gran, Tossa’s main beach, where the golden sands curve gently around the bay. With the medieval fortress rising above it, this is one of the most photographed beaches in Spain — a place where sunbathers and history lovers share the same view.
A short walk to the south leads to Cala Codolar, a smaller and quieter cove, nestled right beneath the castle walls. Here, the turquoise waters are crystal clear, perfect for a refreshing swim or snorkeling session among the rocks.
Culinary Delights and Coastal Charm
When it’s time to eat, Tossa de Mar offers a true taste of Catalonia. Restaurants along the promenade and inside the old town serve seafood paella, grilled sardines, and suquet de peix, a traditional local fish stew. Pair your meal with a glass of Empordà wine and the scent of the sea, and you’ll understand why travelers linger here long after sunset.
As dusk falls, the stone walls glow golden in the fading light, and the medieval towers cast long shadows across the sea. The gentle rhythm of waves and the distant chatter from terrace cafés create a mood of timeless romance.
A Step Back in Time
To explore Tossa de Mar’s Old Town is to walk through centuries of Mediterranean history — from medieval fortresses to artistic inspiration and modern leisure. Its charm lies not only in its beauty but in its balance: a place where heritage and the sea coexist in perfect harmony.
Whether you come to climb its towers, wander its alleys, or simply sit by the water watching the sun dip behind the ramparts, Tossa de Mar invites you to slow down and savor the quiet elegance of the Costa Brava — a timeless escape where history meets the horizon.
